Whispers of the wild – The Gal Oya river, lifeline of the ancient Veddas

The 108 km long Gal Oya River originates east of Badulla and flows towards the Indian Ocean south of Kalmunai. Dammed 100 km from Batticaloa and 318 km from Colombo, this river, sourced from the Madulsima hills in Badulla, was central to the Vedda people, Sri Lanka’s indigenous inhabitants who once thrived in its caves and forests, relying on hunting and gathering practices dating back to 10,000 BC. The Gal Oya project, initiated in 1949, led to the displacement of many Veddas, contributing to modernization and cultural loss, leaving fewer than 200 still living traditionally today.

Gal Oya’s enduring heritage – A journey through time with its indigenous communities

The Vedda people, often referred to as Sri Lanka’s aboriginals, have a history dating back to at least 10,000 BC, with archaeological evidence suggesting Neolithic origins. In the Gal Oya region, they were historically cave-dwellers, living in forests and relying on hunting, gathering, and fishing. Their traditional lifestyle included using medicinal plants and exchanging honey with locals for tools and cloth. The Mahavamsa, a historical chronicle, mentions them as descendants of Queen Kuveni and King Vijaya, dating their presence to the 5th century BCE.

The Gal Oya area’s development, particularly through the Gal Oya project in the late 1940s and 1950s, significantly impacted Vedda communities. Many were displaced or modernized, with some adopting Sinhala and Tamil languages and customs. Today, the remaining Vedda population, estimated at around 2,000 with fewer than 200 still living traditionally, is concentrated in areas like Dambana, close to Gal Oya Efforts to preserve their culture include guided walks with Vedda chiefs, offering insights into their use of medicinal plants, ancient hunting grounds, and cave dwellings. These interactions highlight the fragile and rapidly disappearing nature of their traditions, with modern developments like TV and internet contributing to cultural loss.

A vision realized, a legacy divided – Examining the Gal Oya project’s transformations and challenges

Spearheaded by Prime Minister D. S. Senanayake, the Dominion of Ceylon’s landmark Gal Oya Project, its first major post-independence undertaking, aimed to reshape the valley by damming the Gal Oya River to create the Senanayake Samudra reservoir. This ambitious endeavor brought significant changes, irrigating approximately 40,470 hectares, resettling 250,000 individuals, and establishing vital infrastructure. However, the resettlement process unfortunately triggered ethnic unrest. Ultimately, the project transformed the region into Ampara, becoming a potent symbol of both progress and the disruption of existing social structures, impacting the Vedda and other long-established communities.

Wildlife and the national park – A haven for elephants

When the project began, Gal Oya was rich in wildlife, particularly elephants, which thrived in the untouched forests. Established in 1954, Gal Oya National Park now protects this biodiversity, spanning 25,900 hectares with 32 mammal species, including leopards and deer. The park’s unique feature is watching elephants swim across the reservoir, a sight best seen from March to July during boat safaris. Birdwatching is also popular, with species like ibises and eagles visible from December to April.

Silent stones of Ovagiriya – A glimpse into Gal Oya’s monastic past

Adding to the rich tapestry of Gal Oya’s heritage are the intriguing Ovagiriya monastery ruins. This ancient site unveils the remnants of a monastic complex, notably featuring a unique stupa resting upon an uncommon octagonal platform, a departure from the more conventional circular or square designs. An image house stands with a striking, albeit headless and handless, 11.5-foot tall Buddha statue, where conservation efforts commenced in 2008. Scattered across an estimated 7-8 acres are further remnants, including weathered stone pillars, guard stones, balustrades, and fragments of flat clay roofing tiles, painting a picture of a once vibrant spiritual center. Research indicates that Ovagiriya’s origins trace back to the 5th century or even earlier, with potential links to King Kavan Tissa. Its rediscovery during the construction of the Gal Oya Dam in the 1950s serves as a powerful testament to its enduring historical significance.

Gal Oya’s gentle titans – A paradise for Sri Lanka’s elephants

When the Gal Oya project began, the area was rich in wildlife, particularly elephants, which thrived in the untouched forests. Established in 1954, Gal Oya National Park serves as the main catchment area for the Senanayake Samudra reservoir, protecting this biodiversity hot spot. The park spans 25,900 hectares and hosts 32 species of mammals, including Sri Lankan elephants, leopards, sloth bears, water buffaloes, and various deer species. Elephants are a highlight, with boat safaris offering views of them swimming from island to island, using their trunks as snorkels, best seen from March to July. Birdlife is abundant, with species including ibises, cormorants, egrets, eagles and many more visible, especially from December to April. The park’s unique feature is its ability to offer both land and water-based wildlife encounters, making it a haven for nature lovers.

Beyond the reservoir – Witnessing Gal Oya’s raw natural majesty

Gal Oya’s landscape is considered among Sri Lanka’s most beautiful, with the Senanayake Samudra reservoir surrounded by granite hills, lush grasslands, and dense forests. The reservoir, covering 163 square kilometers, provides a stunning setting for boat safaris, with views of islands and hills. The landscape transforms with seasons: during the green season (January to May), it’s lush with foliage, and in the dry season (June to December), it reveals grassy plains attracting elephants.

Sunsets over the reservoir are magical, with the water reflecting vibrant sky colours, creating a serene atmosphere best experienced during evening boat safaris. The combination of the reservoir, hills, and wildlife offers a picturesque panorama, enhancing Gal Oya’s appeal as a scenic destination.